Billet aluminum suspension knuckles for the SW20 MR2!
Rear Knuckles
Benefits and Features:
-Saves 5.5lb per corner, a 28% weight reduction on the knuckle / hub assembly.
-Improved suspension geometry. Strut angle is increased for a slightly better camber curve, and bump steer can be fine tuned much easier than with stock knuckles.
-Easier wheel bearing changes due to the bolt on bearing and hub assembly.
-Improved suspension travel compared to stock knuckles or stock knuckles plus my geometry kit.
-Alignment aid. Threaded hole in the top of the knuckle tab allows an M8 screw to be installed to reference a camber setting before taking the suspension apart, enabling it to be re-assembled to the same camber setting easily.
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Requires:
-Front hubs from a 2006-2012 Toyota Rav4. Not included. Rav4 V6 hubs match the E153 axle spline, Rav4 4-cylinder hubs match the S54 axle spline.
-Roll center adjuster and tie rod from Wilhelm Raceworks suspension geometry kit OR control arms with an inverted ball joint (plus WRW rear tie rod). Matching front geometry correction highly recommended.
If you already have my geometry kit you will need:
-A new pair of rod ends for the outer ends of the tie rods (5/8" bore instead of 1/2" bore). $40
-If you have the short tie rod version of the geometry kit you will need a 1" longer tie rod tube (11" instead of 10"). $30
-If you have the long tie rod version of the geometry kit purchased after April 2021 you will need a 1" longer tie rod tube (15" instead of 14"). $30
-The options below represent the most common combinations of required parts. Please contact me if you have any questions about what pieces may be needed to complete the installation.
Made in the USA!
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Front Knuckles
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Benefits and Features:
-STRONGER HUBS! The MR2 front hubs are a serious weak point when subjected to the abuses of track or racing use. The Camry hubs used with these knuckles are approximately 1.5-1.7x stronger than the stock MR2 hubs.
-Easy wheel bearing changes due to the bolt on bearing and hub assembly. You also get a new hub with every wheel bearing change, reducing the concern of fatigue failure on the hub.
-Adjustable ackerman. Four positions, ranging from 7% ackerman up to 34% to allow steering geometry to be fine tuned to your application and tires.
-Alignment aid. Threaded hole in the top of the knuckle tab allows an M8 screw to be installed to reference a camber setting before taking the suspension apart, enabling it to be re-assembled to the same camber setting easily.
-Saves ~1.5lb per corner, a 10% weight reduction on the knuckle / hub assembly.
Requires:
-Rear hubs from 2002-2011 Camry. Not included. 2002-2004 has a non-ABS option that is slightly cheaper.
-If you have ABS: Rear ABS sensor wires from 2002-2011 Camry, plus two new connectors. You will crimp these onto the chassis end of the Camry wire. Note that if used with my "extreme" top mounts you will need to remove the extra back shell from the sensor connector to for it to fit.
-Roll center adjuster and front tie rod from Wilhelm Raceworks geometry correction kit, OR control arms with an inverted ball joint (plus WRW front tie rod). Matching rear geometry correction highly recommended.
Note: The hub flange is slightly larger diameter than the stock MR2 hubs, and are not compatible with stock MR2 rotors or with Supra rotors without modification to reduce the diameter of the hub flange. I can perform this modification for you, please contact me for details.
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The included bump steer spacers should be close enough for most users, but if you wish to fine tune a little you will need some additional spacers. This kit includes 2 each of .030", .060", .100", and .200" aluminum bump steer spacers. You will need to remove the spring, and jack the suspension through it's range of motion using a bump steer gauge to properly adjust bump steer.
The main body and the strut tab would probably work as is on the MKI (since the strut is the same, and the ball joint is the same). The only issue might be the toe arm, and while I think it's a bit longer than the one on the MKI, it may work (I would have to get under my MKI to take a look). Maybe a custom shorter toe arm would be required. Worst case would be if the tie rod needed to be inside the end of the toe arm to make the bump steer curve work right. Send me an email if you want to discuss further.
Thanks!
I see that you list Rav4 hubs as necessary. Is this a cheap source or are they dimensionally different? I would like to use these with driveshaftshop com level 5 hubs.
Would it be ok to use aftermarket RAV 4 hubs, such as from TRQ or True Drive, or would you recommend OEM?
Quick note, the parts number for the 3.5L Rav4 has changed to 43550-0R020. Also, Amazon has them for around $264 with free shipping. I just ordered 2. Thought I share the info for your customers looking for OEM rather than aftermarket.
Best regards,
Abimael Mercado
Can this aluminium front knuckles kit be mounted on a street MR2 without your alignement kit ?
I am interested in the rear aluminum knuckles. My 91 race car has BC coilovers, Wolfkatz big brake kit and Racers X lower control arms and toe rods. We are running 275 tires with fender flares and not much clearance. My questions are:
1. Does the aluminum system change the OEM offset?
2. With this Racer X suspension would I need the geometry kit?
3. Do you know if there would be an issue with the Rav 4 hubs with the big brake kit?
4. Are the Rav4 hubs the same as the NA MR2 regarding axle splines and diameter?
Thanks
Norm
Hi Norm,
1. The rear knuckles don't change the wheel offset, although they do bring the coilover a little closer to the wheel. Usually this isn't a problem, but if you are very close there it could be. This could probably be solved with a set of my top mounts to tilt the strut in at the top.
2. You can use the control arms, but you will need my roll center adjusters and tie rods.
3. There shouldn't be any problem with the Rav4 hubs and the big brake kit. The front Camry hubs are larger diameter than stock hubs and won't work with some brake rotors (including the Supra rotor) without modification.
4. The Rav4 hubs are available in two spline options, matching both the NA and Turbo MR2 splines.
If I bought the front knuckles w the geometry kit would it come w the standard geometry kit for the stock rear end or for your knuckles you also provide?
You would get the geometry kit for stock rear knuckles unless you also bought rear aluminum knuckles at the same time.
Would you be able to produce an aluminum front knuckles for a 2002 MR2?
Perhaps someday. I do want to pick up a Spyder at some point. But it's not likely to happen any time soon.
Looking at ordering the aluminum knuckles when the option comes up for the geometry kit it say it's 500$ when i see it on the order page it's back up to 600$?
Yeah, that is correct. The knuckles simplify the geometry kit a little. Instead of a custom machined stud and spacer for the front tie rod it's a regular 5/8 bolt and a couple of 90 cent bump steer spacers, and instead of a fabricated bracket for the rear tie rod it's another 5/8 bolt and bump steer spacer. So buying the knuckles and the geometry kit at the same time saves you a bit of money vs buying them separate.