Based on extensive study of the geometry of the 90-99 SW20 MR2 suspension, the Wilhelm Raceworks Suspension Geometry Kit is designed to correct the negative effects of lowering, and to improve on the stock geometry by reducing dynamic toe (aka bump steer) and adjusting the roll axis of the chassis. The result is significant improvements to turn-in and front end grip, while also reducing the oversteer tendency that the SW20 is so known for. The kit also makes it much easier to catch or control oversteer once it starts.
Made in the USA!
Package deal: Purchase a geometry kit and a full set of coilover top mounts and save $80!
Description of Options:
Short tie rods are typical for US market '91-'92 cars, '90-'91 in the rest of the world. Long tie rods for US '93+ cars, '92+ elsewhere. Please double check your cross member before ordering, a previous owner may have changed it!
High misalignment rod ends highly recommended for stock struts due to large droop travel. With most aftermarket coilovers either front rod end may be used. See instructions here for how to measure droop to verify which rod end you need.
Geometry Kit Installation Instructions
Suggested Alignment Settings
1/16" (1.6mm) total front toe in
1/8" (3.2mm) total rear toe in
-2° camber (front and rear) for street use
-3 to -3.5° camber (front and rear) for track and autocross
The included bump steer spacers should be close enough for most users, but if you wish to fine tune a little you will need some additional spacers. This kit includes 2 each of .030", .060", .100", and .200" aluminum bump steer spacers. You will need to remove the spring, and jack the suspension through it's range of motion using a bump steer gauge to properly adjust bump steer.
Replacement Rod Ends
Eventually, it is possible that the original rod ends supplied with the kit will need replacement. A full replacement set of six premium quality FK rod ends is $220 with the high misalignment front option, $150 without. Please contact me to purchase.
Technical
This kit improves the MR2's suspension geometry in several ways. First, it corrects the negative effects of lowering. As discussed in my suspension geometry analysis, lowering the MR2 (or any McPherson Strut based vehicle) has negative effects on the suspension geometry. In particular, lowering degrades the camber curves and excessively lowers the roll centers, resulting in more body roll. The kit is designed to fully compensate for 1.25" of lowering. However, lowering further than that will not negate the effects of the kit. If anything, the lower your car is the more you can benefit from geometry correction.
Second, the front RCAs are thicker than the rears. This raises the front roll center above the rear resulting in improved turn in AND improved rear end grip.
Third, significantly reduced rear toe change on a Rev1 (91/92) MR2. I have found this to have a significant positive affect on stability at the limit, making the car much easier to drive fast, and consistently. With this adjustment I run my 91 at 1/8" total toe in with no loss of stability, leading to greatly improved rear tire wear. On the Rev2+ cars the kit restores the stock toe curve, which is otherwise significantly altered by lowering the car.
This kit is designed to be bolt-on, and completely reversible. A little work with a press is required on the rear knuckle.
All kits use 3-piece, USA made FK rod ends.
Geometry kit installed on my car:
Front tie rods use a custom made tapered stud, aluminum spacer matched to the roll center adjuster (RCA), aluminum tie rod adapter, and FK rod end.
For the rear tie rod the spherical bearing is removed from the knuckle and a steel slug is pressed in its place. The tie rod drop bracket is a welded steel assembly that simply clamps onto the knuckle. In addition to shifting the pivot point down to match the RCA, this also shifts the pivot point rearward, which reduces the natural toe changes of the rear suspension, aka bump steer. The stock rear tie rod is completely replaced by an aluminum hex tube with 3-piece FK rod ends at both ends, and custom bushings to adapt the rod end to the chassis at the inner end.
Roll center adjusters are machined from 6061-T6 aluminum, and designed to fix and improve the suspension geometry. All aluminum parts are anodized black, the steel front tie rod studs are yellow zinc coated, and the rear tie rod brackets are powder coated in black. All hardware is grade 8 standard / grade 10.9 metric.
This kit requires at least 16" wheels. The rear may require 17's, depending on the exact shape of the wheel. The stock brake dust shields will need to be modified (bent) or removed to clear the front ball joint / RCA.
So, what does this all do for you? Better camber curves, reduced bump steer, improved tire wear, improved roll center location (reduces body roll), and reduced roll center movement for more stable cornering.
Thank you
I was wondering if some parts of this kit would fit the front of the MK3 MR2.
Specifically the parts highlighted in this photo: https://ibb.co/ZTgV8sc
Thanks,
George
Would you touch base via email? 91 Turbo. I already purchased a set of roll center adjusters, not knowing the full scope of the geometry issues. I would like to purchase the remaining items within the kit, if possible.
So much information to digest--Terrific Stuff!
Questions (and I apologize if you previously answered these):
>For my '95, I am refreshing the suspension leading up to a 2GR Swap through TCS; Installing TRD Springs, Koni Sport Adjustable strut inserts, and your Suspension Geometry Kit; 17" Wheels. Most alignment shops work in Tenths of a Degree. With the old setup (Tokico & Eibach Sport) Front: Zero Toe-in & Rear: One-Tenth Toe-In is what I previously ran. Made for a little twitchy (follow the humps & bumps) up front.
Use: Canyon running, Freeway, in town, Not a Daily driver (less than 5k annually); but not Autocross or Track Days.
Thoughts on Alignment specifications once I get these new elements installed? Specifically Toe-In setting for front & rear. Caster & Camber will most likely be set to stock...
>Can you explain the term Total Toe?
Thank You!
Hey Alex, just wondering what the lead time on these getting shipped out is. I’d like to order the kit but just trying to decide if I order now or after the season is over. Thank you!
As long as it's in stock (it is currently), it should ship within a day or maybe two.
Good morning.
My son has a lowered 91 Turbo MR2 with 15" wheels. We would like to install your suspension geometry kit, however right now, he does not have the $$$ for new set 17" tires and rims. He does use for autocross but otherwise daily driver. In your opinion, should we purchase kit and just install the lowering compensation blocks? He is saving for 17s but is probably about a year out. We have already replaced tie rod ends, ball joints, several bushings and am planning to get aligned.
Hi John,
Installing part of the kit will just mess up the geometry. The point of the tie rod adjustment pieces is to keep the tie rods and control arms parallel. If they are not parallel, it will create large amounts of bump steer. It is actually the roll center adjusters (spacer blocks) that make the kit require 17" wheels (or 16's, in some cases, depending on the wheel).
Hi
i have a 92 JDM MR2 don’t know what size rear tie rods I should order with this geometry kit would you kindly get back to me
thanks
A 92 JDM is probably the long tie rod version. But it's easy enough to measure the tie rods on the car to double check. The short tie rids are about 14.4" (366mm) long, and the long tie rods are about 18.3" (464mm).
Hi Alex,
I’m curious as to which rear crossmember you would recommend to use. I have the advantage of having both the early and later styles available to me. Car is mainly used for Tarmac hill climbs and road racing / Track days. Recently purchased a set of KW Coilovers and looking to purchase your geometry kit. I have run king springs on Koni sport shocks and also my own attempt and making Coilovers with the koni inserts and swift springs. I used the earlier style rear crossmember on both. Found the car a little nervous in the rear on high speed bumps. Could be the crossmember, alignment settings or the geometry being a bit out from being lowered or a combination of everything.
A complicated question for sure. The geometry kit helps a LOT on the early short tie rod suspension. I have never actually driven an MR2 with the long tie rod version, but on paper I think I like the short version better, simply because the toe curve is linear and largely insensitive to ride height. However, I think the long tie rod version is going to be easier to drive and more forgiving at the limit (which often means faster), simply because it should never go into toe out, assuming proper ride height. One thing to know, the only difference between the kits is the tie rod tube itself, and that's a $15 part. So for an extra 30 bucks, you can have both and give them both a try.
So if I plan on keeping my street 16s and 15" jegs drag wheels, I need your kit and hux's rear arms?
Correct. You may need Hux's front arms as well. Check if you have 1.75" of space available between the bottom of the front ball joint stud and the inside of the wheel.
Hello Alex,
I have a 94 jdm turbo and its been lowered on Scale coilovers for 5-6 years now without RCA’s. Would my car need your whole kit or can I get away with just the RCA’s since its a 94?
Reasons i ask are 1). Way cheaper for only RCA’s. 2). I see RCA for sale on other mr2 websites but they are all the same diameters for front/rears and may not be as beneficial since yours are different diameters to help with steering etc?
Thanks,
Kyle
Regardless of the year, you need to match the tie rod correction to the ball joint correction or you will seriously mess up the bump steer. The people selling RCA's with no solution to adjust the tie rods are either don't understand suspension geometry, or are just scammers willing to sell anything regardless of if it is suitable for the application.
Understood, thank you kindly. Any idea when you'll have your kit back in stock? Or typical backorder lead time?
It should have been back in stock already, but I have a supplier running late. Another couple of weeks they are telling me.
Hey there Alex, I hope all is well. I have a 1994 MR2 with a gen 3 swap, poly bushings all around, new front ball joints and inner and outer tie rods, front whiteline sway bar, Racer X rear subframe inserts and fortune auto coilovers with swift springs 4K front and 6K rear, the car is probably an inch or so lower than stock. I also picked up a set of Cusco front tension arms which I haven't installed yet. The car has improved a lot since when I first got it (the rear subframe bolts had been slightly loose for a year without my knowing causing lots of very scary moments lol) but it still feels somewhat unstable at speed or under braking, and the steering leaves something to be desired. I see your suspension geometry kits are listed as being on back order. I was curious if you thought some of my issues would be corrected with your geometry kit and what the lead times would be if I were to place an order? Also do you think my 4K 6K spring rates are too soft? I have the OE Fortune auto springs in 5K 7K, would I see an improvement with them over the swifts? And do I need to get front sway bar reinforcement plates on a 1994? The car is primarily a street car that may see some autocross, and have a Garret GTX3067 turbo kit with a Link ECU and top feed fuel rail with 1000cc injectors so if the car is sorta unstable now I'm hesitant to throw more power at it. Thank you for your time and advice in advance.
Hi Emmanuel. Yes, I think the kit will improve things for you. It certainly makes the car more confidence inspiring and easier to drive. Kits should be back in stock in the next week or two, or at least that's when my supplier is telling me I should have the parts I'm waiting on. But they are six weeks late at this point. 4k/6k is a decent street car spring rate, as long as the car isn't super low. You will need to maintain some travel to avoid bottoming out with softer springs like that. But other than that, I think the spring rates are fine for your purpose.
Hey! I saw the kit was back in stock for a minute there! Any ETA on the next batch?
I'm just waiting on a shipment of rod ends from FK, should be back in stock very soon this time.
Alex,
Thanks for the quick shipping! These did fit with my 16x7 RPF01s but that's probably because I'm running 1inch spacers in the front and rear. I have plenty of clearance. I do plan on getting 17x9s in the future. Installation was a breeze. Thanks!